Contents
- a) What is understood by skin priming?
- b) What are cosmeceuticals?
- c) Making sense of cosmeceutical ranges.
- d) How to create an effective skincare plan.
- e) Topical product routine for acne.
- f) Topical product routine for hyperpigmentation.
- g) Topical product routine for rosacea and sensitive skin.
- h) Topical product routine for photo aged skin
a) What is understood by skin priming?
Skin priming refers to the prepping of the skin prior to aesthetic treatments. The purpose is to ensure skin ‘readiness' and in doing so, garners the safest and most effective result. Typically, skin priming will occur 2-4 weeks before treatment. Skin priming is important and in many cases essential. Lack of skin priming can render poor treatment outcomes and adverse skin reactions.
Long term commitment of at-home skincare is needed in order to manage long term skin issues. As general guidance, we should use a cleanser, hydrator, retinoid, antioxidant and growth factor. For hyperpigmentation include anti-pigment serums. For acne concerned include control actives. Anti-redness actives for sensitive skin and Vitamin K for easily bruised skin.
Chemical peels are a fantastic way to prep skin. Polyhydroxy acid peels work particularly well due to their mildness.
b) What are cosmeceuticals?
Topical products that range from prescription to over the counter medicine. Active ingredients affect the structure and alter the appearance of the skin. Cosmeceuticals contain potent actives that are absorbable by the skin.
Are skincare products absorbable by the skin?
One of the main functions of the skin is protection. This function protects us from day to day pollutants and harmful bacteria. Skincare we buy from mainstream drug stores are unlikely to penetrate our skin in a way that alters our skin's behaviour.
Cosmeceuticals are manufactured specifically in a way that allows potent actives to be absorbed by the skin. A potent active could contain anti-pigment targetting pigmentation issues or anti-redness for excessive erythema or sensitivity and so on.
Cosmeceuticals will aid in the regeneration of collagen and elastin for lines and wrinkles.
Are over the counter skincare products useless?
No. OTC skincare can offer short-term remedial benefit. To decide whether we should invest in a more expensive serum vs a much cheaper one, we should first think about our reason for using a serum in the first place.
If our skins' in poor condition or we are committed to professional skin care treatments such as micro-needling or chemical peels, cosmeceuticals are worthy and arguably an essential investment. They work more effectively and therefore command a much higher price tag.
c) Making sense of cosmeceutical ranges
Skincare products are available in both basic ranges and cosmeceuticals. Depending on where we are on our skincare journey, will determine our product choices. There are 5 main products that are beneficial to all skin regardless of current condition.
Substitute a gentle cleanser for oily skin occasionally. Excessive cleansing with oil control products can unbalance the skin, producing more oil.
1) Cleansers – The first step in our skincare routine. An effective cleanser thoroughly removes dirt, makeup and other debris from the skin.
Soap is highly alkaline and causes skin irritation and dryness. It is generally not recommended for daily skin cleansing as it can unbalance the skin.
Toners consist of ingredients such as alcohol and witch hazel that removes the skin's natural oils. Specific toners can be hydrating and used following a cleanse to restore the skin's pH if not using a pH-balanced cleanser.
2) Hydrators – Dehydration causes many skin issues and comprises the skins natural ability to heal itself. Hyaluronic acid is one of the most popular humectant agents and is widely available. Toners are particularly great for oily skin. They can be a useful hydrator in the summer when product usage is kept to a minimum. See toner, an oily girl's best friend.
3) Retinoids – aka vitamin A. Retinoids promote healthy skin turnover and proper skin functioning. They enhance skin shedding, inhibit melanin formation, stimulate collagen production, reduce clogged pores within hair follicles and have antioxidant functions.
Retinoid is what we call a super product, with many benefits. They're effective for lines, wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, acne, keratosis pilaris and more. Retinoids are available in prescription and cosmeceutical strengths.
4) Antioxidants – Free radicals interfere with normal functioning and damage to the skin. Sun exposure, alcohol, smoking, stress, lack of sleep and illness all increase free radical activity in the skin.
An antioxidant has the power to stabilise free radical activity so reducing their damaging effects in the skin. Vitamin C is a water-soluble antioxidant that protects the skin and is highly effective in the L-ascorbic acid form. Vitamin E is a lipid-soluble antioxidant that protects the skin from oxidative stress.
5) Growth factors – Growth factors are cosmeceuticals. They are potent formulations that act to regenerate skin tissue.
Exfoliants
Hydroxy acids have revolutionised treatments and skincare products. They come from many sources both natural and synthetic and used in low %'s in may products from cleansers to exfoliating scrubs and in greater % in products used for chemical skin peeling.
AHA's are generally easy to tolerate and providing they form part of a holistic skincare routine they will not affect the skin negatively. It is important to use sun protection and hydrating products whilst using any form of chemical exfoliation.
Anti-pigmentation actives
Anti-pigmentation agents can be incorporated into a daily routine for the active treatment of pigmentation issues and as part of the skin priming and post-treatment aftercare. There are a variety of anti-pigmentation active ingredients currently used in aesthetic practice.
Hydroquinone is often considered as the gold standard by many cosmetic doctors. However, hydroquinone is no longer used in EU as it has been known to cause skin irritations and possible carcinogenic activity. There are many stories surrounding this on the net if you wish to learn more.
Hydroquinone is available OTC in the USA in strengths of up to 2%. General recommendation is to recycle product usage, avoiding prolonged use. Alternatives to hydroquinone include:
- Kojic acid
- Tretinoin
- Retinol
- Azelaic acid
- Resveratrol
- Liquorice
- Cinnamomum subavenium
d) How to create an effective skincare plan
The cosmetic industry can seem like a minefield. It can be difficult to devise a skincare plan selecting the right skincare products. One of the best things we can do is book an investigative consultation which will include a thorough skin analysis. These are routinely carried out by advanced aesthetic practitioners. Professional insight can often help to confirm our initial thoughts or identify conditions we never knew we had.
If this option isn't accessible, using our skin type is the next best thing. We all have ideas about our skin type. Oily, dry, combination.. maybe blemished, maybe a little sensitive. If we factor in those concerns, we can often bring endless skincare products down to specific types.
Cleanse – Treat – Protect
- We always start with a cleanse, the basic first step. Choose the right cleanser to suit our skin type. Removes debris, prepares skin.
- The second step is to treat. This will incorporate growth factors, retinoid, hydrators, moisturisers, anti-inflammatories, potent actives and exfoliants. In this step, we target skin complaint. What is it we're trying to fix or reduce?
- The third and final step is to protect. This consists of an antioxidant product and finally sunscreen. And because we typically apply sunscreen last, it's ideal to follow this 3 step pattern when applying skincare products.
Below you will find samples of skincare routine for 4 common skin complaints.
- And finally a skincare routine for acne which should include antibacterials and anti-inflammatories.
- A plan for hyperpigmentation, from post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation to hormone-induced melasma.
- A plan for rosacea and sensitivity. It is true fairer skin will present greater signs of erythema but some deeper skins have been known to show signs of rosacea. All skin types can suffer sensitivities.
- A plan for photoaged skin that addresses signs of premature ageing, lines & wrinkles.
Products listed below are not exhaustive and the aim is to guide only. You will find many such skincare routines throughout this blog.